October 2002
Global-Scene Michelle Carney
Roman Holiday…
All fashionistas must make a pilgrimage to Italy, at least once. While Milan is usually perceived as the fashion industry capitol, many happy hunters will visit Rome in search of the latest seasonal fashions before anyone else can get them (at prices that put smiles on those Mediterranean pouty lips.) Rome isn't just a sartorial metropolis or one large pizza piazza as most Russell Crowe fans and Catholics (the two are not synonymous) will tell you, it's also the ancient home of the colossal Colosseum and the Vatican.
When in Rome…
La Storia y Le Attrazioni…
La Dolce Vita…
Ciao Bella!
La Notte…
Dove Dormire…
- Rome
Flying to Rome is an easy cross-Atlantic flight, and American Airlines offers non-stop service from Chicago seasonally. The best times to go are spring and fall, when the weather is warm and clear and the city is not overrun with tourists. However, Testaccio is the place to be in summer when one of Rome's best-preserved areas becomes a stomping ground for the young and hip. And Trastavere is the part of the city where true locals live and hang, so visiting there doesn't have to be seasonal. The city is not overly large - about the size of Philadelphia - so depending on how much you cover in a day, a Roman holiday need only last three or four days if you'd like to take side trips to other parts of Italy. Once you arrive in the "Eternal City," cabs are easy enough, but the best way to get your bearings is with your own two feet and a good map. And steer clear of the mopeds - they're a bit maniacal.
You'll find more medieval monuments and renaissance history by just walking a few square miles than reading any old history book, so hit all the main attractions and then take café and vino breaks in nearby piazzas. Must sees: Built in 27 BC, the Pantheon is one of the world's most sublime architectural creations, a perfectly proportioned floating dome resting on an elegant drum of columns and pediments. The Forum, Colosseum and Circus Maximus (chariot racetrack) circa 72 AD, are all near each other, and if you've seen "Gladiator" you need not take the official tour. But you'll want to delve deep into those grandiose ruins where lions and gladiators fought until death. The tiny enclave in the heart of Rome known as the Holy See or Vatican City is the administrative and spiritual capital of Roman Catholicism and the world's smallest independent state. Visit Saint Peter's Basilica, the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. The Fountain of Trevi has been attracting tourists and their spare change for decades thanks to the rumor that a coin in the fountain will guarantee your return to Rome. Although you're really not supposed to throw coins anymore (it's ruining the marble.) The Trevi Fountain is also the famous locale where "Three Coins in a Fountain," "La Dolce Vita" and Anna Nicole's Guess Jeans ad were filmed. A gift from the Spanish, built by the French, the Spanish Steps are a continual congregation of students, travelers and couples - taking in the view of the Piazza di Spagna and some strong UVs. It's also an historical landmark that paves the way to some of the best shopping this side of the Atlantic.
Fanning outward from the Piazza di Spagna are the Via Condotti, Del Corso, Via Veneto and Via Tritone - all major shopping thoroughfares. You'll find a bevy of beautiful boutiques such as Prada (where J.Lo. caused quite a fracas once the piazza caught wind of her shopping spree), Gucci, Fendi, Dior, Versace, Armani, Brioni and Dolce & Gabbana, where these homegrown designers have what we Americans like to call "flagship" stores. However, the prices are not much cheaper than US, but you're still saving yourself some import taxes, and then there's the "I bought this in Rome" factor. When you say jewelry, the first word that comes to most Romans' minds is Bulgari - Demi Moore, Claudia Schiffer, Sharon Stone, Naomi Campbell, Courtney Cox and Sting have all been known to frequent the collection. *Here's a hint…smaller, independent ateliers on the major Via Tritone and the side streets nearby are where to uncover fashionable treasures no one will have stateside. Our picks: Steven, Alessia, Best Seller, Sportstaff, Joela and Mama Bijoux. And don't forget, Italy is by far the best place to pick up leather and suede items. Also, the Campo de Fiori is a lively piazza where fresh flowers and vegetables are marketed…which brings us to...
Gourmet restaurants abound in Rome, and you'll get a taste of what Italian pizza really is - a far cry from that deep dish of cheese we call Chicago-style. Some suggested ristorantes: Dal Bolognese, Grappolo D'Oro, Pierluigi, Conte Di Galluccio, Antica Hostaria Piccola Roma, Arco di San Callisto and Le Grondici. If scenery is just as important as homemade papparadelle, pick a place in the Piazza Navona. Once the ruins of Emperor Domitian's stadium, it's now beautifully lined with baroque palaces, three fountains and several cafés and ristorantes.
Romans love the nightlife…and reading about their exploits in the society pages the morning after. VIPs, celebs and the ultra-hip are known to frequent Ketum Bar, the Jackie O, Notorius, Follia, Caffe Greco, Gilda, La Maison and Harry's Bar, where the owner pays homage to the "king of paparazzi," Rino Barillari, who captured the glitterati like no one else, in a photo gallery that showcases his unwitting and sometimes unwanting subjects - from Frank Sinatra to Mel Gibson.
Posh Picks: Eden Hotel, Weston Excelsior, Grand Hotel De La Minerve, and if you don't mind staying 15 minutes or so out of downtown, then you'll want to spend some time at the plush Cavalieri Hilton. With its sprawling grounds and dual pools and evening happy hours spent by a gazebo serving sushi, this hotel/resort has an extravagant 'Italian Riviera' feel.
